Any recommendations which of XORP, GNU Zebra and Quagga routing software is simple enough to hack and learn?
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Zebra seems to be dead, XORP, as far as I know, is not widely used in production environments.
I'm afraid you're left with Quagga.
Peter Mortensen
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pQd
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If you want to learn routing as opposed to using in production, a mix of the Cisco emulator dynamips, and the Juniper "Olive" VM hacks gives you an amazing learning environment.
True, neither Cisco nor Juniper really approve of these, but they do work very well.
LapTop006
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